Shanghai: Old, new - liberation

Arriving in Shanghai initially felt like arriving home in any major U.S. city. The looming skyscrapers that appear on the horizon are reminiscent of the New York skyline.  Starkly in contrast from Casey and Kirstin’s weeklong experience in Beijing, they realized that ”neither Beijing nor Guangzhou can match the superficial, gilt-edged feel of modernity that covers the city”(p. 373).

Shanghai skyline.

Fallows argues, “A central problem in the way the outside world thinks and talks about China is that it assumes there is a single, comprehensible “China” to discuss” (2009, p. 4). Casey and Kirstin’s initial reaction to Shanghai was that the city was simply a replica of any U.S. city, and, as such, there was no reason to visit a city that had everything one could find at home. Clearly, the two women were bringing their foreign assumptions of what China should look like and imposing the same notion of a single, comprehensible “China.”
However, upon exploration of the various neighborhoods within Shanghai, the mix of old and new that China has become known for quickly became apparent. The French Concession is a small city block packed with alleyway shops and restaurants, but unlike the China Casey and Kirstin had experienced thus far, it was a peaceful reprieve from the yelling and bargaining of the markets in Beijing. The Bazaar near the Yu Gardens gave the appearance of grand ancient Chinese architecture, but was rebuilt in the 1950s to attract tourists. These two neighborhoods stood in stark contrast to the business district with its daunting skyscrapers and fast-paced commercial feel.

Shanghai skyline.

Garden of the Humble Administrator

Garden of the Humble Administrator

Garden of the Humble Administrator

For example: stepping foot into the winding narrow alleyways of Shanghai’s French Concession is to venture into one of the peaceful respites the booming commercial capitol of China has to offer. The French Concession, a holdover neighborhood from the 1840s, was known in its time for trafficking in opium and was governed by its French residents. Today, the French Concession is full of tiny shops and restaurants that stand quietly by while shopkeepers check their cell phones and generally ignore passersby. Kirstin, being a Western tourist that had finally become somewhat accustomed to the shouting and bargaining Beijing marketplaces are known for, found herself at odds with the lackluster negotiations and disinterest shopkeepers seemed to have in their tourist customers. As a deal for a child’s toy went sour due to her unwillingness to increase price, she realized that she was imposing a Beijing standard upon a city hundreds of miles, culturally, economically and geographically, away.
Even though a week in Beijing had prepared Kirstin for continued experience on the busy streets of Shanghai, she carried with her an assumption that all metropolises in China would operate under the same cultural standards and practices. As James Fallows further discusses, “Every country varies; the challenge of China is that its internal variations are truly enormous . . . [there are] countless important cleavages within the country – by region, by generation, by level of schooling, by rural versus urban perspective, even by level of rainfall . . .” (2009, p. 5) – here she stood, disappointed in the increase from price and the unwillingness of shopkeepers to engage in her rather severe attempts at bargaining, essentially as she attempted to employ Denver standards while operating in Manhattan.
As disappointment in her naiveté and generalizing of China and its citizens washed over Kirstin, she vowed to continue her exploration of Shanghai anew and under its terms. Diving back into the alleyways of the French Concession, Kirstin returned to a toyshop in which she had earlier attempted to purchase a gift for her niece. Knowing now that bargaining does occur, but perhaps on a subtler level than in Beijing, she held a up toy and looked at the shopkeeper. “15 dollar,” the shopkeeper said.  If in Beijing, Kirstin would have offered 5 dollars in response. Clutching the toy, Kirstin offered in return a tentative “10.” Grabbing a bag, the shopkeeper swiftly wrapped up the gift and sent Kirstin on her way.

French Quarter.

French Quarter.

As the class discovered the French Quarter and the Yu Gardens and Bazaar, as well as the business district and Pearl Tower yesterday, the juxtaposition of the different neighborhoods made Casey and Kirstin appreciate all of the ways Shanghai has expanded into a major metropolitan city. All of the neighborhoods and their characteristics that make up the greater puzzle of Shanghai truly reflect the variety of China that Fallows addresses. As Fallows points out, “no one can sensibly try to present the ‘real story’ or the ‘overall picture of this country” (p. 4). Perhaps not, but one can certainly present her own story of China, and Casey and Kirstin are finding that their narrative of China, shared as well as independent, is turning out to be quite liberating.
References
Fallows, James. (2009). Postcards from Tomorrow Square: Reports from China. New York: Random House.
McMillan, A. F. (2010). Shanghai Exposed. Business Traveler.

Post from CU Denver Student Kristin Runa
Source: ataleoftwocitieschina.wordpress.com