Arriving
in Shanghai initially felt like arriving home in any major U.S. city.
The looming skyscrapers that appear on the horizon are reminiscent of
the New York skyline. Starkly in contrast from Casey and Kirstin’s
weeklong experience in Beijing, they realized that ”neither Beijing nor
Guangzhou can match the superficial, gilt-edged feel of modernity that
covers the city”(p. 373).

Shanghai skyline.
Fallows argues, “A central problem in the way the outside world
thinks and talks about China is that it assumes there is a single,
comprehensible “China” to discuss” (2009, p. 4). Casey and Kirstin’s
initial reaction to Shanghai was that the city was simply a replica of
any U.S. city, and, as such, there was no reason to visit a city that
had everything one could find at home. Clearly, the two women were
bringing their foreign assumptions of what China should look like and
imposing the same notion of a single, comprehensible “China.”
However, upon exploration of the various neighborhoods within
Shanghai, the mix of old and new that China has become known for quickly
became apparent. The French Concession is a small city block packed
with alleyway shops and restaurants, but unlike the China Casey and
Kirstin had experienced thus far, it was a peaceful reprieve from the
yelling and bargaining of the markets in Beijing. The Bazaar near the Yu
Gardens gave the appearance of grand ancient Chinese architecture, but
was rebuilt in the 1950s to attract tourists. These two neighborhoods
stood in stark contrast to the business district with its daunting
skyscrapers and fast-paced commercial feel.

Shanghai skyline.

Garden of the Humble Administrator

Garden of the Humble Administrator

Garden of the Humble Administrator
For example: stepping foot into the winding narrow alleyways of
Shanghai’s French Concession is to venture into one of the peaceful
respites the booming commercial capitol of China has to offer. The
French Concession, a holdover neighborhood from the 1840s, was known in
its time for trafficking in opium and was governed by its French
residents. Today, the French Concession is full of tiny shops and
restaurants that stand quietly by while shopkeepers check their cell
phones and generally ignore passersby. Kirstin, being a Western tourist
that had finally become somewhat accustomed to the shouting and
bargaining Beijing marketplaces are known for, found herself at odds
with the lackluster negotiations and disinterest shopkeepers seemed to
have in their tourist customers. As a deal for a child’s toy went
sour due to her unwillingness to increase price, she realized that she
was imposing a Beijing standard upon a city hundreds of miles,
culturally, economically and geographically, away.
Even though a week in Beijing had prepared Kirstin for continued
experience on the busy streets of Shanghai, she carried with her an
assumption that all metropolises in China would operate under the same
cultural standards and practices. As James Fallows further discusses,
“Every country varies; the challenge of China is that its internal
variations are truly enormous . . . [there are] countless important
cleavages within the country – by region, by generation, by level of
schooling, by rural versus urban perspective, even by level of rainfall .
. .” (2009, p. 5) – here she stood, disappointed in the increase from
price and the unwillingness of shopkeepers to engage in her rather
severe attempts at bargaining, essentially as she attempted to employ
Denver standards while operating in Manhattan.
As disappointment in her naiveté and generalizing of China and its
citizens washed over Kirstin, she vowed to continue her exploration of
Shanghai anew and under its terms. Diving back into the alleyways of the
French Concession, Kirstin returned to a toyshop in which she had
earlier attempted to purchase a gift for her niece. Knowing now that
bargaining does occur, but perhaps on a subtler level than in Beijing,
she held a up toy and looked at the shopkeeper. “15 dollar,” the
shopkeeper said. If in Beijing, Kirstin would have offered 5 dollars in
response. Clutching the toy, Kirstin offered in return a tentative
“10.” Grabbing a bag, the shopkeeper swiftly wrapped up the gift and
sent Kirstin on her way.

French Quarter.

French Quarter.
As the class discovered the French Quarter and the Yu Gardens and
Bazaar, as well as the business district and Pearl Tower yesterday, the
juxtaposition of the different neighborhoods made Casey and Kirstin
appreciate all of the ways Shanghai has expanded into a major
metropolitan city. All of the neighborhoods and their characteristics
that make up the greater puzzle of Shanghai truly reflect the variety of
China that Fallows addresses. As Fallows points out, “no one can
sensibly try to present the ‘real story’ or the ‘overall picture of this
country” (p. 4). Perhaps not, but one can certainly present her own
story of China, and Casey and Kirstin are finding that their narrative
of China, shared as well as independent, is turning out to be quite
liberating.
References
Fallows, James. (2009). Postcards from Tomorrow Square: Reports from China. New York: Random House.
McMillan, A. F. (2010). Shanghai Exposed.
Business Traveler.
Post from CU Denver Student Kristin Runa
Source: ataleoftwocitieschina.wordpress.com